Just to start, you should know that I pulled out the AP Style Guide to figure out if “post-mortem” takes a hyphen. I guess it does, but I think it looks like shit. Why do I continue to follow AP style when I truly think it’s kind of crap? This is what happens while I wait for my similarly shitty brownie photos load up, I guess. Ah, yes, things are already going as well as can be expected for your Belligerent Baker. But here goes.
I’ve discovered now with test no. 2 that there are more complications to creating what appears to be the same, professionally made brownie seen here. As I mentioned in the last post, these are good brownies for such an easy recipe, but I think that making that brownie at home will require more complex preparations. One of my goals has always been getting to what’s in the picture, no matter how stylized or retouched, and I’ve found that it can certainly be done with the extra work and research; but for reasons I’ll get into here in a minute, this recipe’s no different despite its very smart premise.
My tasters and I are also experiencing a bit of a disconnect between the texture and density of the brownie, and the actual chocolate flavor. Now, I was able to mature the chocolate flavor quite a bit with some easy substitutions, but that doesn’t change the fact that generally speaking, chocolate baked goods made with solely with cocoa taste like cake, not like a brownie. See, when you’re testing, you can finagle the flavor or the texture, depending where you are in the process. But when you want to perfect a recipe, you’ve got to balance both. I did not account for this in test no. 2 because I’d hoped the flavor adjustments would be enough. You’ll be happy to know I’ve got a really simple fix for that. But first? The breakdown.
Ingredients
I’ll not bore you with a diatribe about the original recipe’s instructions to use organic, local crap. Although I would dearly love to, because I’m broke from it and anything that cuts into my soda budget makes me mad. Anyway, I’ll just reiterate here that I noticed absolutely no difference in performance and taste from either the $4 dozen of eggs or the $5 pound of butter.
The cocoas? This is just a matter of taste and appearance; you may prefer the flavor and color of natural cocoa, and that’s fine. I prefer Dutch-processed. (You may also like Saco and Special Dark as well, both of which are a combination of natural and Dutched cocoas.) Whichever one you choose, though, what is absolutely essential is the addition of the espresso paste. Without it, the top note is truly just the three cups of sugar. If you can’t find instant espresso, instant coffee will do in a pinch. Just keep it small, so you don’t change your proportions.
2 TBL instant espresso, a splash of boiling water, and a wee whisk is all you need here.
A baker's best friends.
Obviously, all-purpose flour is called for here. What happened, though, is that the first batch, made to spec, produced a brownie that was dense, sure, but still had a rather unrefined crumb. The color of the natural cocoa didn’t help this, and the result looked a bit amateurish. Cocoa can also clump together, not necessarily in visible balls, but just several grains at a time; this will also affect the crumb. After setting, too, will such a high quantity of fat in the recipe, the brownie itself became a bit spongey. So for test no. 2, I sifted the cocoa and flour after measuring. This, along with the processed sugar, certainly helped refine the crumb a great deal, but the issue of sponginess after setting remained.
But that’s not the only issue the developed upon setting. As we all know, fat carries flavor, and the great quantity certainly works to that effect here. I will say again that this is a great idea, although it may not work quite right in a noncommercial setting. Here’s what I believe happened.
There’s not a great deal of dry ingredients vs. wet/fat in the proportions. The purpose, of course, is to make a rich, fudgy brownie without the added work of melted chocolate. But with such a low proportion of dry to wet/fat ingredients, the brownies in effect become greasy after setting. Yes, you read that right: Greasy. In a bakery, these things don’t sit around too long, so no great shakes, I guess. And of course, you can skirt this issue by serving it with a fork and plate, but this doesn’t fit my definition of a brownie. Or of perfect.
As it happened, the recipe developed an issue with the seven eggs as well. And that brings us to the process.
Directions and Process
I should say first that for the most part, the directions here are spot-on. The creaming of the butter and sugar is a brilliant idea, and gives the brownies a structure I’m certain they wouldn’t have otherwise. Without a way to bloom the cocoa, I do recommend adding the salt, and full two teaspoons at that, to the butter and sugar mixture as an activator. I also recommend sifting and processing the dry ingredients, but it’s not criminal if you don’t. But what is criminal is my failure, as well as the original’s failure, to take into account the seven eggs in the baking process. Eggs are delicate ingredients, but adding one or two to an already big mix will require no special treatment. But seven? I’m an idiot.
If you’ve ever made a custard, a mousse, or a proper cheesecake, then you know you need bake these things in a bain-marie–a water bath–so the whole thing bakes evenly. Failing that, the high quantity and delicacy of the eggs will allow for the outer edges to bake far faster, causing them to crust up and pull away from the pan. Which is so amateur-hour, I can’t even say. This happened in both tests, and I could smack myself for failing to make the adjustment the first time. I guess I just wanted to believe that I could still manage this without adding excess trouble for you, and trust me, baking in a bain-marie is a bitch. But check it out:
Wow, that's ugly.
The edges are soft, to be sure, but I’d like to know how–or if–the bakery managed to avoid this ugly problem. Or do they just cut the edges off before serving? (Not that this is bad; it’s important to be able to disguise your mistakes.) But it’s the omission of this enormous little detail that drove me to start this project in the first place. I mean, I know these are satisfactory, and a lot of people will love them just as they are, but give us the chance to do the best we can with it. Tell us what’s really going to happen.
Further Improvements
Of course, I’ll be doing these again to create a better home version. I don’t want you to have to use a water bath for what are proper-looking but still just a stupid pan of brownies, and I don’t want you to mess around with melted chocolate if you don’t have to. But this just still isn’t right for home use. Just off the top of my head, here’s what I think needs to happen:
- Different fats, fewer eggs: A lot of the gloss and chew evident in the original photo can come from splitting the butter with some oil; this will also settle far better over time. Put the oil over a low heat, too, and you can bloom the cocoa in it for a richer flavor. As for the eggs, I just don’t think seven is necessary for either structure or flavor. And omitting several will eliminate the need for a bain-marie.
- Slightly cakier texture: The oil will help encourage a somewhat lighter texture, but that sponge business aside a new texture is mostly for flavor improvement, to be honest. That’s because the cocoa flavor is better suited to a slightly lighter texture, and the fruit jam–yeah, remember that–will pop more in a lighter brownie, too. I don’t mean that these need to be airy, per se, but this recipe needs to lighten up a bit to make more sense.
- Intensified bites: This one’s important. If you choose to go with this recipe as is (including my necessary substitutions), this is the easy flavor fix I mentioned early on. To create a flavor that will be in balance with the heavy texture, simply add a bag of chocolate chips, or a couple of chopped up candy bars or baking chocolate–whatever’s handy. I might even say milk chocolate’s your best bet, assuming that you’ve added an espresso paste to your mix. You may even want to throw in a bag of frozen berries just before baking, too. Just be sure to fold them in gently.
Lastly, here’s a shot of the finished product. Please let me know if you have any questions, and apologies for the bad grammar.
Do remember to check back, since I’ll keep thinking about this one.
Obviously shot on the good side.
Tags: baker, bakery, bakery recipes, baking, baking for others, baking with fat, better baking, butter, cookbook, cost, equipment, fat, ingredients, kitchen equipment, learning to bake, learning to cook, lifestyle, materials, oil, recipe, test recipe, writing